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Playa Maderas, Nicaragua

Where the Waves Speak Louder

By Karina Castrillo

Oceanfront deck with two cushioned lounge chairs overlooking an infinity pool, lush greene

Nicaragua is my parents’ country, but I borrow it when I can. Its lands are dotted with volcanoes and lapped up by lakes and beaches so serene it feels freeing to witness. The country is still very much off the radar compared to its more popular neighbor, Costa Rica. (Sometimes I want it to stay that way, but here I am sharing.)

 

In January 2024, we took a family trip together to Playa Maderas, which in English translates to “beach of woods”. Playa Maderas is about 25 minutes from the busy vacation town, San Juan del Sur, and it’s tucked away enough from the tourist crowds to remain quiet and peaceful, and we almost had the beach to ourselves. 

 

We stayed at a secluded retreat by the same name, and took the steep walk down to the water. The rocky and pebbled shoreline is majestic, and the waves are thunderous and constant — perfect for surfing. In the daytime, the retreat hosts yoga sessions from its tiki hut, and from our tree house we had epic views of the cliffs which were extra special when the sun set behind them.

Playa Maderas is still slightly underdeveloped, which I’m grateful for. There’s plenty of flora and fauna so that you hear all kinds of sounds, and have the feeling of being in a well-built home, while being immersed in the jungle . At night, an army of raccoons came up to our front yard looking for scraps from dinner. However, it’s comfortable enough so that the experience feels invigorating — a true break from the hustle and bustle of city living. 

 

The road to Playa Maderas may be a bit rocky, but rent yourself a sturdy 4x4 jeep, and you can fall asleep to the sound of real waves crashing against the rocks instead of a sound machine.

By Karina Castrillo
@karinainthecity

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Here & There Series is an annual visual chronicle rooted in the arts. Each edition in the City Series explores a single city through photography, interviews, and insider stories—offering a collectible publication to display, revisit, and share.
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